MY PUPPY CONTRACT !!!!!!!!

COPY OF MY PUPPY CONTRACT

MARBURYS COCKERS

Puppy Sales Contract between Mrs Dennis ( Breeder ) and the Purchaser

Puppy details:

Puppy KC name:

D.O.B:

KC registration number:

Sex:

Colour:

Purchase Price Deposit : £ To Pay : £ Paid in full : [ ] Date / /

Purchaser Details :

Name(s) : ……………………………….........................................................................

Address: ……………………………..............................................................................

……………………………….........................................................................................

……………………………….........................................................................................

Telephone Number : ………………………………........

Mobile : ………………………………...........................

Email : ……………………………….............................

This Puppy is sold to the Purchaser under the following strict conditions :

1 That the puppy is sold to the purchaser as a pet. No guarantee can be given that the dog/bitch will

Be for show or breeding purposes

2 That the puppy has the following restrictions on its Kennel Club Registration paper “ Progeny

Not to be Registered”

> This means that any offspring of the above dog can not be registered by the Kennel Club of

Great Britain or any other kennel club and that the dog can not be exported from the UK with

out the breeders permission.

> If in the future the purchaser wishes to breed from the above dog, this restriction can only be

lifted at the breeders discretion.

3 That the above dog is in no way to be rehomed, sold, given away gifted or donated to any other

Person.

4 In the event of the purchaser being unable to keep the above dog for any reason at any age, it

Must be returned to the breeder with all relevant paper work (KC reg, vaccination card, eye test if

Done)

5 It is also agreed by purchaser that the puppy:

1, will be kept in appropriate conditions for its welfare and health.

2, will be fed a suitable diet for its age and condition.

3, will receive all necessary veterinary care to maintain its good health.

It is understood that if the purchaser fails to keep any part of this contract or if the puppy in any way is maltreated, the purchaser will surrender the above dog back to the breeder with all paper work. This will be without financial restitution or compensation.

Signed (breeder)…………………………….......................Date…………………

Signed (purchaser)……………………………....................Date………………..

PUPPY INFORMATION

All our 'babies' are regularly played with and handled by us and our children and their friends.

They are born and raised in our busy household and used to all household noises, we even play them a cd which has all sort's of loud noise's and bangs.

When we do have puppies available, we aim to insure they go to loving and permanent homes, where the new owners have the time and commitment to train and love one of our babies.

Before the puppies leaves for its new home, it has been well cared for and socialised. The puppy does not go to its new home trained and well mannered. This is up to the new owner to finish the job we have started and to train these little babies. Its is down to you how your puppy turns out, with training, guidelines and structured rules and love.

My puppies are wormed every 2 weeks and come kennel club registered and a full health check from my vet before leaving. They come with a 5 generations pedigree, 4 weeks free insurance, food to leave with and some thing that smells of Mum and siblings.

Please note all my puppies come with a puppy contract of sale and are endorsed (not for breeding or export)

We at Marburys have a lifetime commitment to our puppies and will always provide full after sales advice and support. Also our puppies MUST be returned to us, if you can no longer keep them, as we like to know where our puppies are!!

General Description

The Cocker Spaniel is a relatively small, compact dog, with a height of between 15 & 16 inches at the shoulder and an approximate weight of around 30 lbs. The Cocker is classed as a medium sized dog. The average life span of a well cared and healthy Cocker is approximately 10 years although there are many dogs who live to sixteen plus.

The Cocker was originally developed from its larger cousin the Field Spaniel. Cockers were bred to flush out birds from under bushes and hedgerows etc.

Cocker Spaniels come in seventeen colours, the solid colours: Black, Red, Golden, Black & Tan, Liver and Liver & Tan. In parti colours there are: Black & White, Black, White & Tan, Tri-Coloured, Blue Roan, Blue Roan & Tan, Liver Roan, Liver & White, Liver, White & Tan, Orange Roan, Orange & White and Lemon Roan.

Cocker Spaniels make brilliant family pets due to their wonderful temperament. The Cocker's reputation goes before him as a friendly, happy and well-mannered dog. They are easy to train, eager to please and make devoted companions. A Cocker likes to be with the family and will follow you from room to room, if allowed. Cocker's are merry and happy dogs, they are happy to work and happy to play.

The Cocker Spaniel is a gundog, and he will enjoy (given the opportunity!) many happy hours investigating interesting smells and looking for the opportunity to flush out wildlife from the surrounding countryside. Equally a Cocker is at home on his master's lap or in front of the fire. Most Cockers (although not all) like water and relish the occasional swim. Cockers are adaptable dogs and can be easily trained to retrieve as well as flush.

There are a number of diseases seen in the breed such as progressive retinal atrophy (PRA) and familial nephropathy (FN). Selected breeding is helping to eradicate these problems and in recent years the situation has improved, thanks to responsible breeders and the BVA/KC health schemes.

Coat Care

The Cocker Spaniel has a long and silky coat. The Cocker coat, if not clipped will require regular and thorough grooming in order to prevent matting and to keep the dog comfortable. A well-trimmed Cocker is a pleasure to look at, however it does take time.

New owners should take time to familiarise themselves (your breeder should be a good source of information, they will perhaps be willing to advise you or in some cases they will trim dogs for a living) with the coat care of their Cocker or if you wish to have your Cocker professionally trimmed, find a grooming parlour who know about Cocker Spaniels. The average Cocker will require trimming on a six to eight week basis.

Dog or Bitch

Unlike other breeds there is very little in temperament etc. to choose between a dog or a bitch. Bitches are quieter, and can be easier to house train but they do have seasons approximately every six to ten months. During a season you will need to keep your bitch away from male dogs for approximately three weeks and possibly alter your normal exercise routine in order to keep interested dogs away from your home. A bitch in season will also have a bloody discharge, which can stain furniture etc.

Dogs grow slightly larger than bitches and can be a bit stronger, however dogs generally are more loving and faithful than bitches but they can take a little longer to house train and at around the time of puberty can get a bit full of their own importance and need slightly firmer handling.

Exercise

A Cocker puppy should not be over exercised, in fact when you first acquire your pup the exercise he gets from playing with you and his visits to the garden for toileting will be adequate. From six months your puppy can have twenty minutes free running and half an hour walking on the lead daily. When your dog gets to eighteen months old, he will be able to endure as much exercise as you are able to give him.

All dogs require training to a greater or lesser degree. This depends on what you expect from your pet. As a family pet, lead training, toilet training and basic obedience is a must. This will ensure the animal has a happy co-existence with the family and will behave in a manner acceptable to members of the public who come in contact with him

Puppy Training

I do not intend to say how to train as there is a wealth of information out there.

FEEDING

Dont be too concerned if your pup is off its food when you first bring it home. Dont immediately seek to introduce enticements to get your puppy to eat.

WHY? Your pup is new to its enviroment. It maybe too interested in the new place to be bothered about food.

Dont suddenly change the diet. WHY ? It takes up to 3 days for a dog to produce the correct enzymes to digest new food, during which time it will only absorb the water content, leading to signs of diarroes/soft stools. Instead if you HAVE to change your pup's diet, do it gradually over 4 days. Following the following procedure:- Day 1; quarter new food 3 quarters old food, Day 2; half new half old, Day 3: 3 quarters new quarter old, Day4 New food.

Dont stay with your pup all the time, WHY ? Your pup needs to learn to be left alone, otherwise you may cause separation related problems.

Leave the puppy for periods of up to ten minutes on a regular basis, return only when your pup is quiet. WHY ? ten minute periods on a regular basis will help habituate your pup to your absence. Returning when your puppy is quiet reinforces the learning that quietness will guarantee your return.

Dont go down to your puppy at night if it cries. WHY ? the pup will learn to call you back by crying. Coming in once will perpetuate the problem and increase the strength of learning, eg:- night 1: pup cries for ten minutes, you return. Night 2:- pup cries for ten minutes, no return by you so pup cries for a further period, eg 15 minutes, you return. Pup has learnt to work harder ( 25 minutes instead of 10, in order to get reward of your return) WEEK 2 pup cries for hours until you give in and return ( or worse bring it up to bed with you).

BITING : DONT TAP YOUR PUPS NOSE TO STOP BITING. WHY? you can cause your pup to become handshy. You want your pup to relate positively to you, not be fearful of the hand that maybe feeding it, grooming it, putting on lead etc.

BITE INHIBITION :-

Dogs must learn bite inhibition, ie not to bite fully. In a pack of dogs, it is important not to damage your pack members, when playing. How strong a play bite is depends upon the feedback obtained by the dog from the bitten animal: if the bitten animal bites back or yelps or stops playing then it was too hard.

If you wait until your pup has bitten your skin then your reaction is to pull away, the dog has learnt only that it can make you dance. When your pup grabs your clothing, including shoe laces etc . DONT shout and dance about, WHY ? the pup learns to make you more exciting and interesting and is rewarded. DO yelp and close down, stop interacting and stop looking at your dog. Become immobile. After all your playmate has hurt you so why should you continue to play? After a minute or so normal activity can resume.

JUMPING UP:

DONT PET YOUR PUPPY WHEN HE/SHE CLIMBS OR JUMPS UP AT YOU. WHY ? your pup is being rewarded for jumping up. DO only pet your dog when the 4 paws are on the ground, thereby preventing your pup from learning to jump up.

Toilet Training

Training should start immediately. A young puppy needs to piddle and poo frequently so he should be taken to an appropriate place in the garden at appropriate times such as first thing in the morning, after a meal, on wakening from sleep and last thing at night. Always leave a supply of newspapers down at night beside his bed. Gradually, over a period of a few weeks, move the newspapers towards the door at the same time reducing the area covered.

Watch your puppy carefully and learn to recognise when he is about to poo - some will move in a circle, others will sniff the ground. Just before he performs say a chosen word like 'Be clean' or 'Busy'. Once he has performed give him lavish praise. After a time your puppy will know what is meant by these words and will perform in the chosen toilet place when you are out. Please remember not to allow him to leave his mess in public places like parks, playgrounds, playing fields or pavements as this could lead you to a fine. Pooper Scoopers are a good investment.

Toilet training should be quite a simple process, as long as you take the time and trouble to get into a good routine.

Initially, you will have to build your routine around your puppy’s needs, and these are reliably predictable when they are very young.

Puppies need to urinate immediately after waking up, so you need to be there to take your puppy straight into the garden without any delay.

Eating its meal stimulates its digestive system, and puppies normally urinate within fifteen minutes of eating, and defecate within half an hour of eating (although this might vary slightly with each individual).

Puppies have very poor bladder control, and need to urinate at least every hour or two. They can urinate spontaneously when they get excited, so take your puppy out frequently if it has been active, playing or exploring.

You may find it useful to keep a record of when your puppy eats sleeps, urinates and defecates. A simple diary list will do.

Repeat cue words like ‘wee wees’ and ‘poo poos’ or ‘be busy’ and ‘be clean’ while the puppy is actually urinating or defecating. Use different words for each action so that you will be able to prompt the puppy later on.

Always go with your puppy into the garden so you are there to reward and attach the cue words to the successful actions!

Fortunately, puppies are creatures of habit, so as long as you introduce the garden to your puppy as its toilet area early on, you should be able to avoid most of the common pitfalls.

Toilet training errors

Unfortunately there are many reasons why ‘toilet training’ might not go as smoothly as it could, so make sure you do not make any of the following mistakes...

• Over-feeding.
• Feeding an unsuitable diet or giving a variety of foods.
• Not feeding at regular times.
• Feeding at the wrong times (which could cause overnight defecation).
• Punishing the puppy for its indoor accidents (which can make it scared of toileting in front of you – even outside).
• Feeding salty foods (e.g. stock from cubes) which makes them drink more.
• Using ammonia based cleaning compounds (which smell similar to urine).
• Expecting the puppy to tell you when it needs to go out; this is unrealistic, so it is better to take them out at regular intervals.
• Leaving the back door open for the puppy to come and go as it pleases (a puppy will think that the garden is an adventure playground, rather than a toilet area. Also, what is a puppy meant to do when the weather gets cold, and it is faced with a closed back door?).
• Leaving the puppy on its own too long, so that it is forced to go indoors (which sets a bad precedent, or even a habit of going indoors).
• Mistakenly associating the words ‘good girl’ or ‘good boy’ when they toilet, as opposed to the specific cue words. Guess what could happen the next time you praise your dog?
• Access to rugs or carpet (which are nice and absorbent – just like grass).
• Laziness on your part, resulting in more wees indoors than outdoors.
• Leaving the puppy alone in the garden, so you are not there to reward it for going outdoors… how is it meant to learn that it is more popular and advantageous going outdoors, if you are not there to show your approval?
• Submissive or excited urination on greeting (if this occurs, take your puppy outside before you greet it and tone down your greeting so it is less exciting or overwhelming).
• It is unfair to expect your puppy to go right through the night when it is very young.
• Sleeping the puppy in a crate or puppy pen can help with house training but you should let it out in the garden to relieve itself during the night.

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